A first plate of belacan bee hoon is not a quiet introduction to Kuching. The fermented shrimp paste announces itself before the rice vermicelli arrives, which is exactly why No.4 Belachan Bee Hoon, Cuttle Fish & Kang Kong at Song Kheng Hai is worth approaching with an appetite and an open mind. [image: 1788779259550-p1.jpg] DayakDaily This stall's story is more specific than a generic hawker-centre recommendation. The recipe came through the operator's father-in-law, who sold belacan bee hoon around the KMC Flats before the family moved into the food centre. The broth is not a quick pour: the belacan is roasted, blended with herbs and simmered for up to four hours, then balanced with palm sugar and chilli sauce. [image: 1788779259643-p5.jpg] DayakDaily The normal set is the sensible starting point; add the century egg version if you want the richer RM8 plate. I would keep the supplied chilli, palm-sugar sauce or vinegar nearby, because the dish is deliberately pungent and the condiments let you move it from salty-fermented to sweeter, sharper or hotter. Sotong kangkung is the natural side order. No.4 Belachan Bee Hoon, Cuttle Fish & Kang Kong Song Kheng Hai Ground Food and Recreation Centre, Jalan Song Kheng Hai, Kuching Open in Google Maps Open daily, 11am–5pm. Come before the afternoon closes if you want to understand why a smell that divides first-timers can become a family habit. This is a dish for curious eaters, not for anyone seeking a neutral bowl of noodles.