Belacan Bee Hoon in Kuching: No.4's Four-Hour Broth at Song Kheng Hai
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A first plate of belacan bee hoon is not a quiet introduction to Kuching. The fermented shrimp paste announces itself before the rice vermicelli arrives, which is exactly why No.4 Belachan Bee Hoon, Cuttle Fish & Kang Kong at Song Kheng Hai is worth approaching with an appetite and an open mind.
This stall's story is more specific than a generic hawker-centre recommendation. The recipe came through the operator's father-in-law, who sold belacan bee hoon around the KMC Flats before the family moved into the food centre. The broth is not a quick pour: the belacan is roasted, blended with herbs and simmered for up to four hours, then balanced with palm sugar and chilli sauce.
The normal set is the sensible starting point; add the century egg version if you want the richer RM8 plate. I would keep the supplied chilli, palm-sugar sauce or vinegar nearby, because the dish is deliberately pungent and the condiments let you move it from salty-fermented to sweeter, sharper or hotter. Sotong kangkung is the natural side order.
No.4 Belachan Bee Hoon, Cuttle Fish & Kang Kong
Song Kheng Hai Ground Food and Recreation Centre, Jalan Song Kheng Hai, Kuching
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Open daily, 11am–5pm.Come before the afternoon closes if you want to understand why a smell that divides first-timers can become a family habit. This is a dish for curious eaters, not for anyone seeking a neutral bowl of noodles.
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